After checking-in with the hostess, we made our way downstairs to the sunken bar which was ringed with low, shiny white stools. Away from the bar were a small number of low tables with ornate, portrait-style chairs and elegant benches. The dim lighting bounced off the mirrored spaces and the lacquered furniture which gave the room a sort of Zanzibar feel which may have accounted for the 30-something couple sitting next to us who seemed to be devouring each other at the expense of their champagne which was rapidly going flat. We were immediately offered coasters and menus (they serve a small pates menu in the bar consisting mainly of assorted steamed dim sum) by the attentive and efficient bartenders. Mr. Ex-Pat ordered a Light & Grassy which was Jim Beam, lemon juice, ginger & lemongrass cordial, peach puree and ginger beer served in a tall glass. I personally hate Jim Beam but this was a fine drink - not too sweet and with a nice kick. I ordered the Pisco Sour which Mr. Ex-Pat said was the best he'd ever tasted. It was excellent. I don't know if it was the best but it was certainly excellent. Of course the thing about that particular drink is that there are so many ways to make it and each way is different - at Luz in Brooklyn, it has a frothy top layer that's accented with freshly grated cinnamon and orange zest, at Employees Only in Manhattan, it's a much more subtly flavored and refined affair.
By the time we finished our drinks, our table was ready upstairs. Going from the thumping beats of the bar, it was like emerging into an entirely different place altogether. Small, round tables, each with silver lamps were spaced around wall-hugging leather banquettes. Our waiter, Judah, came directly over to offer us water and menus (one wine list, one dinner menu which was sensible as one is obliged to sit next to each other for parties of two). We chose an interesting Tokai Pinot Gris from Alsace (29GBP).
The dinner menu is relatively long (3 pages - the last of which describes the two tasting menus on offer) and the prices and portions make the items perfect for tapas-style sharing. Mr. Ex-Pat and I started with the Assorted Steamed Dim Sum (two each of: sui mai, har gau, gu chai) and the King Prawn Tempura. The dim sum was so well done that I would order my own portion next time. The har gau especially was a treat though all three were standouts. The prawns were also lovely but frankly, I think it's one dish that's pretty difficult to do poorly. The batter was extremely light and crisp and the color made me think that perhaps rice flour was used? The only thing amiss that I noticed (and really, not a big deal) was the accompanying dipping sauces both had a skin on them. What was most odd about that was the sauce for the tempura was described on the menu as "Premium Soy Sauce" which it most certainly was not, though it was tasty.
Neither Mr. Ex-Pat nor I could choose a single main course so we opted to share the Spicy Stir Fried Chicken and the Slow Pot Roast Ox Cheek with a side of Wok Fried Morning Glory and a side of Egg Fried Rice. Now, one thing that must be pointed out about the Crazy Bear Group is that they have their own farm where they source ingredients such as chicken and lamb and their eggs are never more than 24-hours old. That being said, I have never had Egg Fried Rice like what we had Saturday night. In fact, I'm not really a fan of rice (a bit pointless in my book and egg fried rice even more so) but this was something special.
Anyway, getting a bit ahead of myself...
So, after spooning rice onto our plates, Mr. Ex-Pat took the lid off the Ox Cheek crock. The aroma was wonderful. Large chunks of meaty goodness poked out from a rich gravy of cane sugar, stock, onions, chilies, cilantro and who knows what else. "This meat doesn't look trimmed to your standard," Mr. Ex-Pat announced and he was right... on the surface. He dutifully spooned the leanest pieces onto my rice but one fatty bit slid through and while I saw it happen, I did nothing to stop it but took the bite and fairly fainted. The cheeks had such depth of flavor and were so tender to quite literally melt in one's mouth. I began to wonder if maybe the trimming comment was a ruse for the husband to get the lion's share. If it was, he'd underestimated me.
Next up was the chicken. The chicken was stir fried and coated in a dry-rub red curry paste with long beans, red chilies and cilantro. The flavor was fantastic - not too hot but with a nice, mild heat. The chicken itself was infused with lemongrass making a nice complement to the curry. Unfortunately, the chicken was a bit dry but still, very nice. The long beans also tasted very fresh and had a nice crunch - where they got them is beyond me as they almost positively weren't frozen and often tend to taste a bit mealy the older they get.
Finally, the Wok Fried Morning Glory was served with roasted garlic, red chilies and possibly a bit of soy sauce and had a fantastic flavor. The morning glory was mostly crunchy though there were bits that had gone soggy. All and all though, it was a winner.
There was nothing that we ordered that I wouldn't order again and after seeing some of the dishes that went to other tables (the pork belly, in particular), I will be hard pressed to narrow my choices for next time.
Including wine, our drinks from downstairs, and gratuity, our bill came to 113GBP and was worth every penny. All in all, the food was fantastic, the service was impeccable (again, Judah was a star), and the atmosphere upstairs was elegant and almost serene. The only thing I would caution is to not have too many drinks before using the w/c - go and you'll see what I mean!
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