Crazy Bear, 26-28 Whitfield Street, W1

Behind a traditional pub facade lies a glittery, two-story space in Fitzrovia where Thai food rules upstairs and a wide variety of new and classic cocktails reign downstairs.  Crazy Bear was recommended to us by the manager of our local pub so Mr. Ex-Pat and I booked a table on Saturday night for 7:30PM but we were sure to get their early for a pre-dinner drink in the bar.

After checking-in with the hostess, we made our way downstairs to the sunken bar which was ringed with low, shiny white stools.  Away from the bar were a small number of low tables with ornate, portrait-style chairs and elegant benches.  The dim lighting bounced off the mirrored spaces and the lacquered furniture which gave the room a sort of Zanzibar feel which may have accounted for the 30-something couple sitting next to us who seemed to be devouring each other at the expense of their champagne which was rapidly going flat.  We were immediately offered coasters and menus (they serve a small pates menu in the bar consisting mainly of assorted steamed dim sum) by the attentive and efficient bartenders.  Mr. Ex-Pat ordered a Light & Grassy which was Jim Beam, lemon juice, ginger & lemongrass cordial, peach puree and ginger beer served in a tall glass.  I personally hate Jim Beam but this was a fine drink - not too sweet and with a nice kick.  I ordered the Pisco Sour which Mr. Ex-Pat said was the best he'd ever tasted.  It was excellent.  I don't know if it was the best but it was certainly excellent.  Of course the thing about that particular drink is that there are so many ways to make it and each way is different - at Luz in Brooklyn, it has a frothy top layer that's accented with freshly grated cinnamon and orange zest, at Employees Only in Manhattan, it's a much more subtly flavored and refined affair. 

By the time we finished our drinks, our table was ready upstairs.  Going from the thumping beats of the bar, it was like emerging into an entirely different place altogether.  Small, round tables, each with silver lamps were spaced around wall-hugging leather banquettes.  Our waiter, Judah, came directly over to offer us water and menus (one wine list, one dinner menu which was sensible as one is obliged to sit next to each other for parties of two).  We chose an interesting Tokai Pinot Gris from Alsace (29GBP).

The dinner menu is relatively long (3 pages - the last of which describes the two tasting menus on offer) and the prices and portions make the items perfect for tapas-style sharing.  Mr. Ex-Pat and I started with the Assorted Steamed Dim Sum (two each of: sui mai, har gau, gu chai) and the King Prawn Tempura.  The dim sum was so well done that I would order my own portion next time.  The har gau especially was a treat though all three were standouts.  The prawns were also lovely but frankly, I think it's one dish that's pretty difficult to do poorly.  The batter was extremely light and crisp and the color made me think that perhaps rice flour was used?  The only thing amiss that I noticed (and really, not a big deal) was the accompanying dipping sauces both had a skin on them.  What was most odd about that was the sauce for the tempura was described on the menu as "Premium Soy Sauce" which it most certainly was not, though it was tasty.

Neither Mr. Ex-Pat nor I could choose a single main course so we opted to share the Spicy Stir Fried Chicken and the Slow Pot Roast Ox Cheek with a side of Wok Fried Morning Glory and a side of Egg Fried Rice.  Now, one thing that must be pointed out about the Crazy Bear Group is that they have their own farm where they source ingredients such as chicken and lamb and their eggs are never more than 24-hours old.  That being said, I have never had Egg Fried Rice like what we had Saturday night.  In fact, I'm not really a fan of rice (a bit pointless in my book and egg fried rice even more so) but this was something special.  

Anyway, getting a bit ahead of myself...

So, after spooning rice onto our plates, Mr. Ex-Pat took the lid off the Ox Cheek crock.  The aroma was wonderful.  Large chunks of meaty goodness poked out from a rich gravy of cane sugar, stock, onions, chilies, cilantro and who knows what else.  "This meat doesn't look trimmed to your standard," Mr. Ex-Pat announced and he was right... on the surface.  He dutifully spooned the leanest pieces onto my rice but one fatty bit slid through and while I saw it happen, I did nothing to stop it but took the bite and fairly fainted.  The cheeks had such depth of flavor and were so tender to quite literally melt in one's mouth.  I began to wonder if maybe the trimming comment was a ruse for the husband to get the lion's share.  If it was, he'd underestimated me.  

Next up was the chicken.  The chicken was stir fried and coated in a dry-rub red curry paste with long beans, red chilies and cilantro.  The flavor was fantastic - not too hot but with a nice, mild heat.  The chicken itself was infused with lemongrass making a nice complement to the curry.  Unfortunately, the chicken was a bit dry but still, very nice.  The long beans also tasted very fresh and had a nice crunch - where they got them is beyond me as they almost positively weren't frozen and often tend to taste a bit mealy the older they get.  

Finally, the Wok Fried Morning Glory was served with roasted garlic, red chilies and possibly a bit of soy sauce and had a fantastic flavor.  The morning glory was mostly crunchy though there were bits that had gone soggy.  All and all though, it was a winner.

There was nothing that we ordered that I wouldn't order again and after seeing some of the dishes that went to other tables (the pork belly, in particular), I will be hard pressed to narrow my choices for next time.

Including wine, our drinks from downstairs, and gratuity, our bill came to 113GBP and was worth every penny.  All in all, the food was fantastic, the service was impeccable (again, Judah was a star), and the atmosphere upstairs was elegant and almost serene.  The only thing I would caution is to not have too many drinks before using the w/c - go and you'll see what I mean!

Scott's, 20 Mount Street, W1

In New York, there is a certain type of restaurant (or bar, club, cafe, etc.) that opens to rave reviews and then is nearly impossible to get into.  A few months later, it is heavily populated with what are called the "Bridge & Tunnel" crowd; those people who travel from Long Island, Staten Island, New Jersey.  The worst of the B&T crowd descend en mass using their "outdoor voices" inside and tend to assume an air of proprietorial entitlement that can only be the natural result of having sat in traffic for hours on the BQE just to have dinner in the city.  Happily, the infiltration does not last long as the B&T crowd usually moves on to the next big hotspot as soon as they can get a reservation.

This is not the case at Scott's.  Scott's is consistently populated with everyone from film stars and footballers (WAGs and chavs in tow) to neighborhood locals and for some reason, at least of table of representatives from Essex.  Needless to say, it makes for interesting people-watching.

But people-watching is not the main event here - rather, it's what one does while waiting for one's cocktail or starter to arrive.  One comes to Scott's for the fish.  I must confess that while my husband and I have dined at Scott's a number of times, I am a creature of habit.  My husband (Mr. Ex-Pat), on the other hand, shakes it up every time and can vouch for the octopus carpaccio, the smoked eel, the wild rabbit on toast, and the wood pigeon on toast.  I've sampled all of his orders and so far, tend to favor the wood pigeon which was perfectly cooked (rare but not bloody) and very flavorful without being gamey.  The only time I deviate in my ordering is for my first course and then it's dependent on the season.  In the summer (depending on the month, of course), I will generally order either a half-dozen native oysters or their glorious zucchini flowers.  The native oysters are just as I like them best - fat, briny, with a slight sweetness.  The zucchini flowers are a thing of beauty as well - stuffed with robiola then fried in an exceptionally light tempura batter and served over a bed of heirloom tomatoes with just a hint of pesto.  In the fall and winter, I tend to start with the cod's tongues served with marrow.  This last visit, on New Year's Eve, I stuck with tradition.  The cod's tongues were served with ceps in a rich, buttery jus and accompanied with two roasted marrow bones and a piece of buttered, grilled toast.  The tongues and ceps were heaven though a touch overcooked but certainly not enough to quibble about.  The toast would have been served well without the butter as the marrow was rich enough without the extra fat.  The only complaint I had was out of the two pieces of marrow, only one was perfection; the other suffered from some sort of bloody-gristle nonsense that looked too unappealing to bother with.

As usual, I followed my starter with the 16oz. Dover Sole Meuniere which the waitstaff helpfully took off the bone for me.  The fish was firm and dense - the flesh perfectly seasoned and almost caramelized.  Mr. Ex-Pat and I decided to share a side of plain, steamed spinach which I flavored with a bit of the clarified butter from my sole.  The spinach however, did not need the dressing up I gave it.  The leaves were bright green and just slightly steamed so they retained their individual leaves rather than being the mess of dark green mush in brownish water that one normally gets in restaurants.  Mr. Ex-Pat threw me for a loop when he ordered the Roast Sea Bass with Clams & Sea Shore Vegetables instead of the Atlantic Halibut.  The halibut looks like a sad piece of fish when it arrives - bone-in, all alone on the plate - but dear me, is it tasty!  The chef wisely lets the halibut speak for itself by simply seasoning it and either roasting it or grilling it.  The Sea Bass on the other hand, was set in a bowl of a creamy, buttery sauce that was enhanced by the clam's natural juices.  The skin of the bass was crisp and the flesh firm with a hint of opacity.  Mr. Ex-Pat, who generally has an aversion to clams and mussels ate them with relish and pronounced the dish a winner.

Scott's is a favorite for boozy lunches particularly in the summer when it's possible to sit outside.  They make a mean classic champagne cocktail and vodka martini but the wine list is fairly limited if one is looking for a mid-range white.  There is a Chablis for 36GBP and a Pouilly-Fume at 40GBP that are very nice but one would like a few more choices in that range.

The only real complaint I have with Scott's is the cover charge.  Granted it's only something like 2GBP per person but seriously... When one is paying 150GBP plus the 12.5% service charge (or whatever it is - I can't remember) for lunch for two, doesn't it seem a bit mean to charge an extra couple of pounds for the privilege?